ROOK SCARF
a reversible scarf to match the Rook Hat

For this scarf you will need:
Yarn: 2 or more skeins of worsted to bulky self-striping yarn like Noro Kureyon or SWTC Karaoke.
Hook: size K
Scarf Width: using Noro and following this pattern, you will get a scarf width of 7”. When varying the scarf width, make sure you are working across an odd number of stitches.
Terms: ch = chain, st = stitch, sc = single crochet, dc = double crochet

The Pattern:
Ch 20 loosely. Work a sc in the back “bump” of each chain across. (19sc’s total)

Work Even Rows:
Ch 1, work a sc in each st across. (19 sc)

Repeat the Work Even Rows until the color of your yarn has changed. At the beginning of the next row (it doesn’t matter which side of the piece because it’s reversible), go to V Row.

V Row:
Ch 1, *sc in the next st, dc in the space 2 rows below the next st* across, ending the row with a sc.
Go back to Work Even Rows until the next color change, then work another V Row. Repeat until scarf is desired length.
Pattern & images © 2008 Sophia Kessinger

ROOK HAT

For this hat you will need:
Yarn: 1 skein of Noro Kureyon (for adult medium size) or SWTC Karaoke (for adult small size). If you want to make your hat bigger, you will need more yarn. Adapting for a larger size is explained in the pattern.
Hook: size K
Removable stitch marker

Specs:
Size & Gauge:
Kureyon: gave me 2.75 sc over 1”, and made a hat that would fit a 22”-23” circumference head.
Karaoke: gave me 3 sc over 1”, and made a hat that would fit a 21”-22” circumference head.

Terms:
sl st = slip stitch, sc = single crochet, dc = double crochet, pm = place marker, ch = chain

The Pattern:
It’s called “Rook”, because the stitch pattern reminded my boyfriend of the top of the chess piece. This was written specifically for self-striping yarn, with the intention that it add a little fun texture and color displacement along the stripes.
The color changes in the yarn dictate when to move from one part of the pattern to the other.



Ch 4, join with a sl st to the 1st chain to form a loop.
1) Pm (through the loop currently on the hook, to mark beginning of round), work 6 sc in the loop.
2) Pm, 2 sc in every stitch around.
3) Pm, *1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the following st* around.
4) Pm, *1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the following st* around.
5) Pm, *1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the following st* around.
6) Pm, *1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the following st* around.
7) Pm, *1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the following st* around.
8) Pm, *1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the following st* around.
If you want a bigger hat, add another round or two of increases here.

Even Rounds:
Sc in each st around for about 5 rounds or until you notice your yarn has totally changed to a different color. You may be in the middle of a round; it doesn’t matter. Immediately go to V Round.

V Round:
Pm, *sc in the next st, dc into the space 2 rows below the next st* around, ending with dc into the space 2 rows below the next st.
See pictures for illustration of the V round.

The toothpick is indicating the space into which you dc. (It’s 2 rows down and a bit to the left)


Insert hook into this space, draw up a loop of yarn and continue to work a dc as usual.


Continue the pattern by working more Even Rounds until the color changes again, then working another V Round. Repeat until you run out of yarn.
If you have a few skeins of the same yarn, you can make a matching reversible Rook Scarf.
Pattern & images © 2008 Sophia Kessinger

Mini Muffin Hat

For this pattern you will need:
Yarn: oddments of DK or Light Worsted Yarn held doubled throughout.
You’ll need at least 2 colors. (the examples pictured used Katia Diana)
Crochet Hook: size K
Removable stitch marker

Specs:
Gauge: 3 sc = 1”
Size: for a Baby (head circumference up to 15”)

Terms:
ch = chain, st = stitch, sl st = slip stitch, pm = place marker, sc = single crochet, *to* = repeat

The Pattern:
Ch 4, sl st to first chain to form a loop.
Rnd 1: pm on loop currently on hook to show the beginning of the round.
6 sc in ring.

Rnd 2: pm, work 2 sc in each st around.

Rnd 3: pm, *1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the following st* around.

Rnd 4: pm, *1 sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the following st* around.

Rnd 5: pm, *1 sc in the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the following st* around.

Rnd 6: pm, *1 sc in the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the following st* around.

Rnd 7: pm, *1 sc in the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the following st* around.

Rnd 8: pm, 1 sc in each sc around, then sl st to the first sc of this round, cut yarn, and fasten off (there should be 42 sts total from here on)

Join new color to the st to the left of the st just fastened off.
Rnd 9: pm, ch 1, *sc into the space one row below the next st, sc into the following st* around, ending with sc into the space one row below. Sl st to ch 1.



Rnd 10: pm, ch 1, 1 sc in each st around.

Rnds 11-14: Repeat Rnd 10. End Rnd 14 with a sl st to ch 1. work the sl st using a new color.

Rnd 15: pm, ch 1, *sc into the space 2 rows below the next st, sc in the following st* around, ending with sc in into the space 2 rows below. Sl st to ch 1.
When working the sc’s into the space 2 rows below, make sure you don’t crochet too tightly; otherwise your work will pucker.



Rnd 16: pm, ch 1, sc in each st around.

Rnds 17 & 18: Repeat Rnd 16, ending with a sl st to the ch 1. Cut yarn and fasten off.

Rnd 19: attach new color. pm, sc in each st around.

Rnds 20-23: pm, sc in the back loop only of each st around.
Add pompom or tassel if desired.



Pattern & images © 2008 Sophia Kessinger